A Surfer's Paradise in Itacaré, Brazil

Oh yes, now this is the life... 

We choose Itacaré, a surf resort on Brazil's northeast coast, mainly based on the fact that the weather might be a bit more reliable than that of rival surf paradise Florianópolis, in Brazil's South, but still with great waves. We are completely wrong, of course, and it rains pretty much every day of our trip to Itacaré, but only in small amounts that don't affect the holiday too much.

The view from my hammock at Pousada Hanalei

We stay at Pousada Hanalei, a guest house conveniently set just off Praia da Tiririca - the best beach for hard-core surfers in Itacaré. Our room, at the top of the pousada, is split over two levels, with a double and a single bed downstairs and another single mattress on the floor of the mezzanine level. We have a balcony with hammocks, though this is right next to the reception area, so not exactly private, and the view from the balcony and mezzanine look right out onto beautiful beach views.

The view of Tiririca beach from our penthouse room at Pousada Hanalei

The atmosphere at Hanalei is as you'd expect from any Bahian pousada - so relaxed it's almost horizontal. No rushing, no dressing up. It's all board shorts and Havaianas and the only rule is that you take your shoes off to walk on the perfectly polished floors of the breakfast area. 

Breakfast itself is something to look forward to: two fresh white bread rolls each with the customary Brazilian rolled-up slices of cheese and ham, a plate of fruit (often fresh watermelon, melon and papaya) a plate of packet-baked cake, and a plate of something different each day (which could be pão de queijo, or pancakes). The fruit juice is disappointingly from a packet, as is the cake, but the café com leite is exactly as it should be in Brazil (strong and milky) and this breakfast certainly sets you up for a day of surfing.

We booked our surfing with Local Surf, a school I found through www.itacare.com.br. It's not easy to find out about surf schools in Itacaré on the internet, and we choose Local Surf mainly because it's much cheaper and more relaxed than its main competitor, EasyDrop. 

We manage to arrange with Felipe, the helpful chap at Local Surf, to stay for 8 nights at Pousada Hanalei, with 3 days of surfing lessons, board and equipment hire and a transfer to and from Ilhéus airport for the grand total of R$2,700 for two people. It's expensive compared with what it used to be, but you can't do anything for cheap in Brazil these days.

We spend the next few days surfing the beaches of Resende, Pontal, Jeribucaçu and Engenhoca. It's a surfers paradise - great waves, beautiful beaches, a chilled vibe. But, in hindsight, I probably wouldn't have chosen Local Surf. The two instructors are very friendly and they're great people, but they're perhaps just a little too relaxed and they don't push me to try harder. After a couple of falls and a bit of scary water, I could do with a lot more encouragement to improve. They are, however, pretty flexible when it comes to lesson timings and locations, and I get the feeling things at EasyDrop would be the exact opposite. By the last day, though, we find our own instructors on seasoned-surfers beach Tiririca and pay by the hour, which is perfect if you're not a complete beginner.

The nightlife in Itacaré consists of just one main street, lined with restaurants and bars. Most of them are half-empty, even in high season, so I dread to think what it's like in low season. Our favourite place is Espaço Brasil, a funky surf-shack type pizza restaurant that also serves grilled fish and steak. Our waiter is the chattiest guy on earth and uses every opportunity to practice his English.

Inside Espaço Brasil

Be warned, though, Bahia is one of the worst places for bad food hygiene in Brazil. Within days, I find myself projectile vomiting on the street outside a petrol station after eating some dodgy salad and feijoada (Brazilian meat and bean stew). We spend an hour or so waiting in the blistering heat, flies swarming around us, at the tiny local hospital, but at least I am seen eventually and the service is decent and - more importantly - free!

Caipirinha on arrival at Espaço Brasil

Despite the minor food poisoning incident, Itacaré is an amazing, relaxing place and I'd recommend it to anyone. But by far the highlight of the trip is discovering Jeribucaçu beach. This place really is paradise on earth. It takes a 25-minute drive from Itacaré and then a 25-minute trek through rainforest, but eventually we arrive on the most breathtaking, secluded beach. At lunch time, we break from surfing and tuck into freshly fried fish, tapioca and delicious cocktails.

By the end of the afternoon, the tide comes in, covering the entire beach and making way for the freshwater pool where we bathe until sunset. Now, if only I could stay here forever...

The sign speaks for itself

São Paulo Pitstop

Almost there!

After the 11-hour flight from London to São Paulo, there's only a four-hour wait til my connecting flight to Buenos Aires. It's weird being back in Guarulhos airport. I left Brazil from this very airport almost three years ago and everything is so familiar - the accents, the clothes people wear, the way they say "Do you want sugar or sweetener with that?" - as if there's no option to have neither.

I always hated this airport for its utter lack of anything to do. There is literally one tiny food kiosk with a paltry selection of food, and a couple of extortionate duty free shops. There isn't even a magazine stand. How can a major international airport get away with it?!

Anyway, the thing I just can't believe is how expensive everything is here. I've spent four years covering Brazilian finance so I know all about inflation and the rising Real, but it's not until you experience it as a consumer that you really realise how crazy expensive this city (and country) is. 

I just paid 45 reais for two pães de queijo (cheese bread balls, amazing!), two small bottles of water, a small latté (in a polystyrene cup - we're not talking Starbucks here) and a small plastic cup full of fresh orange juice. 45 reais. That's about 20 British pounds!!!! Are you kidding me?!

Girl About Buenos Aires

Seven months ago, I decided to move from London to Buenos Aires. I have been in love with Latin America ever since I went to live in Brazil in August 2000, and I’ve been back to the region many times since. I worked in São Paulo for a couple of years in 2007-8 and, though I loved it, it was a lonely experience for a young twenty-something female. I went back to live in London and vowed that if I ever moved back to Latin America, I would go as part of a family, where I could enjoy the sunshine, lavish living arrangements and incredible food and drink opportunities with my husband and children. I also vowed that if I ever went back to live, it would be to Buenos Aires, a city I simply fell in love with when I visited in 2007 and 2008.

Alas, after two and a half years back in London, I found myself 28 years old, still single and in a bit of a career rut. I’d been working as a journalist covering Brazilian financial news for three years, and there comes a point where there isn’t much more original material you can produce about a country 5,000 miles away. My employer – a large, global financial media company – had people in South America just begging me to move back to the region, while their European counterparts seemed a little indifferent to me. Moving to Buenos Aires, Mexico City or São Paulo could do wonders for my career and I desperately wanted to continue working with the region. So when the lovely, British editor out in Argentina mentioned there was an opportunity coming up for a commodities and energy correspondent in Argentine, I didn’t need long to think about it.

To Marry an Argentine Stallion? 

The only question was my love life. I’d always reasoned that I didn’t want to settle down with a Latin American man – let’s just say I’d been there, done that and, though I have always been very attracted to the Latino type, I figured I’d be happier with a nice, down-to-earth Yorkshire man, or at least someone who knew a bit more about my childhood, background and culture. But, after three years of crappy dates, men who didn’t call and, well, let’s just say a withering talent pool, I figured I wasn’t getting anywhere in England and, anyway, love only comes when you’re least expecting it. What difference would a few years in Buenos Aires make? And maybe I would meet a nice, charming Argentine stallion along the way…

So, that was the decision made. I would move all my belongings to Argentina and make a proper life of it. I was desperately excited. Little did I know it would take an interminable seven months to get my business visa, and in that time I would meet the love of my life, a dashing Irish man, back on home territory. Typical – men are like buses! But I knew I’d be crazy to give up my big Argie opportunity for a man I’d only known for a couple of months, so I decided to move there for a shorter period before moving to Ireland for my man.

Marathon Training

I also decided a few months ago to run the Buenos Aires marathon. Running the 26 miles has always been on my list of things to do before I’m 30 and, since I’m 29 already and will probably be away for the London marathon next April, I figured I better start soon. The marathon is October 9. 

So, today, when I finally got my visa, I booked my flight to Buenos Aires straight away. I’ll be arriving on October 5, just in time to settle in for a few days before the big run. So… exactly one week to go. Buenos Aires, here I come!